01 The reason you came
The natural pools
- Distance out
- About 200 m from the sand
- Needs
- A low tide, ideally 0.5 m or under
- Getting there
- Jangada, about R$60
A reef sits parallel to the beach a couple of hundred meters offshore. On a big falling tide it breaks the surface, and the water trapped between it and the sand becomes a chain of clear, warm, waist-deep pools with the reef fish still inside them. You stand up in them. Children can stand up in them. That combination — an actual coral reef you can walk around in without being able to swim — is why this beach became famous and why it stays busy.
Getting out there is part of it. The jangada is a flat-bottomed wooden raft with a triangular sail, the fishing boat of this coast for centuries, and the jangadeiros run the crossing themselves through their own association, from a ticket counter at the end of the street. Six to a boat, about an hour, and they sail when the tide says so rather than when the schedule would prefer. Take something on your feet, leave the sunscreen off until you are out of the water, and do not stand on the coral.