01 Reached on foot, and only at low water
Baía dos Golfinhos
- From Praia do Centro
- About a kilometer along the sand
- Access
- On foot at low tide, or by boat
- The dolphins
- Resident, all year
A cove between two headlands, with no road to it and no way down the cliff. You walk in along the beach from Praia do Centro, about a kilometer, or from Praia do Madeiro on the other side, and you can only do it at low tide. Older maps and the scientific literature call it the Enseada do Curral. Everybody else calls it the dolphin bay, and the reason is that gray dolphins come into it.
The species is Sotalia guianensis, the boto-cinza or Guiana dolphin, a small coastal dolphin that lives along this shore rather than passing through it. Researchers at the Federal University of Rio Grande do Norte spent 863 hours over 151 days watching the animals in this cove between 1999 and 2004 and published an ethogram of what they do here: feeding, chasing, social play, aerial behavior, and time spent with calves. The bay is protected because of them. Tibau do Sul created a coastal fauna reserve over it in 2006, and it remains the only conservation unit in Rio Grande do Norte set up specifically for the boto-cinza.
Nothing about that guarantees you a sighting. A four-year UFRN study from the clifftop found them most often in the bay in the morning, between 9:00am and 12:00pm, and they are wild animals in an open bay. What it does mean is that no month is better than another for it. If you are walking in, the variable you can control is the tide: pick a day when low water falls in the morning, walk in early, and give it an hour.