01 Aleijadinho’s own church, inside and out
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis
- Begun
- 1766
- By
- Aleijadinho, painted by Mestre Ataíde
- Closed
- Mondays
The most complete surviving statement of what Brazilian baroque became once it stopped copying Portugal. Antônio Francisco Lisboa — Aleijadinho — designed the building, carved the soapstone medallion over the door and the altarpieces inside, and the ceiling was painted by Manoel da Costa Ataíde, whose Virgin has the face of a mixed-race Brazilian woman rather than a European one. The two of them worked on it for decades. It is the church that art historians point at when they argue that the colony developed something of its own.
It stands on the Largo de Coimbra, a sloping open square below Praça Tiradentes, with the Pico do Itacolomi filling the gap between the buildings behind it. The soapstone market sets up under white umbrellas across the same square most days, which means the classic view of the church is over a hundred carved bowls and birds. Admission is a few reais and the ticket normally also covers the small Museu do Aleijadinho next door.